Does Hair Color Damage Your Hair? The Honest Answer
— in Scalp & Hair HealthThe honest answer is: it depends. And the details matter.
This question deserves a straight answer rather than careful deflection. Color can damage hair. It does not always. What determines the difference is which type of color, how it is applied, and what happens between appointments.
Permanent Color and Developer
Permanent color uses hydrogen peroxide as a developer to open the cuticle and deposit pigment within the cortex. A 20-volume developer used on healthy virgin hair for a simple color refresh causes minimal damage. A 40-volume developer used on already-bleached hair causes significant damage.
Bleach Is Different
Bleach works by breaking down the melanin in the hair shaft and lifting the natural pigment entirely. This process also disrupts the disulfide bonds within the hair’s protein structure. Multiple rounds of bleaching without bond-building treatments compounds the damage significantly. Read the full breakdown of what happens to hair structure during over-processing
Demi-Permanent and Semi-Permanent Color
Shades EQ, which we use for all of our toning at Fettle and Mane, is a demi-permanent, acidic formula. It does not use a traditional peroxide developer and does not lift the cuticle the same way permanent color does. It deposits tone and closes the cuticle. Read more about how and why we use Shades EQ
What Protects the Hair During Color Services
Bond-building treatments (Olaplex and K-18) used during and after chemical services reduce the structural damage. Correct developer selection for the specific service. Avoiding overlapping lightener onto already-lightened hair. Maintaining the integrity of the hair between appointments with proper home care. Read our full K-18 vs. Olaplex guide
Concerned about your hair’s health in relation to your color services? Let’s talk at your next consultation.